Arya News - About 2,500 kilometers south of Japan, coffee trees found growing on Rota Island in the Mariana Islands are living relics of the Japanese colonial era. Kiyokazu Onishi, 74, and Naomi Nakahira, 57, hope to market the island`s coffee as something that “miraculously” survived Word War II.
TOKYO – About 2,500 kilometers south of Japan, coffee trees found growing on Rota Island in the Mariana Islands are living relics of the Japanese colonial era. Today, two Japanese men are working to commercialize the coffee in the hope of making it a symbol of peace and friendship between Japan and the island.
In 1920, in the wake of World War I, the island became part of a League of Nations mandate territory of Japan. Later, Japanese and U.S. forces clashed there during World War II. Today, with a population of just under 2,000, the island is U.S. territory.
The Yomiuri Shimbun
Kiyokazu Onishi shows coffee saplings in Ome, Tokyo
Kiyokazu Onishi, 74, who works for the revitalization of the island, and Naomi Nakahira, 57, of major coffee company UCC Japan Co. hope to market the coffee as something that “miraculously” survived Word War II.
On a recent day, Onishi of Ome, Tokyo, looked satisfied as a rich aroma spread from the brown liquid as he poured hot water over coffee beans picked on the island and roasted. “The bountiful fruit is indeed the real thing,” he said.
In 1993, Onishi visited the island as a tourist for the first time, and immediately fell in love with its unspoiled nature and friendly islanders. He organized a triathlon competition with fellow athletes on the island, which grew into a popular annual event attracting many Japanese participants.
However, due to factors such as the Sept. 11, 2001, terrorist attacks, the number of visitors to the island began to decline, and the 2016 triathlon competition, which would have been the 23rd, had to be canceled.
Having studied ways to revitalize the island, Onishi recalled an islander’s words that there used to be lots of coffee trees in the mountains. Onishi decided to find them and make them a local specialty. In 2017, he shared the idea with the mayor of Rota and others with whom he had close relationships. The following year, Onishi was told that coffee trees had been discovered halfway up Mt. Sabana, the island’s highest peak.
A coffee plantation on Rota Island in the Mariana Islands, around 2022, photo courtesy of Kiyokazu Onishi. PHOTO: THE YOMIURI SHIMBUN
Typica variety
Onishi then sought the advice of Nakahira, head of UCC’s agricultural research department. In 2019, they traveled to the island together.
Nakahira said that as soon as he saw the characteristic brown new shoots of the coffee trees, he thought they might be the Typica variety of Arabica coffee beans that Japanese had brought to the island. Nakahira, who was responsible for the maintenance and technical guidance of UCC’s plantations, recalled stories that Japanese who had once moved to Hawaii brought the variety to Taiwan and Saipan.
According to a Japanese overseas development guidebook published in 1935, Osaka-based Nanyo Coffee Co. tried to expand into Rota following its entry into Saipan and other locations. Later documents also show that the company operated a coffee farm of about 198 hectares on Rota Island and developed it significantly.
The coffee trees were confirmed as Typica by a research institute. A bottle from Dai Nippon Brewery, a predecessor of both Asahi Breweries Ltd. and Sapporo Breweries Ltd., was also found near the trees. Nakahira thought it was almost certain that the area where the trees are growing was the site of Nanyo Coffee’s plantation, and that they would be able to make popular coffee using the beans.
Source of pride for Rota
Nakahira now instructs workers at a plantation where 1,000 young saplings were transplanted, near where the trees were found.
David Calvo, 61, who assisted with the search and now manages the plantation, said he is grateful that the coffee serves as a connection to the past and to Japan.
“If approached thoughtfully, coffee could become a product that reflects the pride, resilience and uniqueness of our island community. It could be something we are proud to share with visitors and friends around the world while creating lasting economic opportunities for future generations,” Calvo said.
Plans are underway to brand the coffee as “Rota Blue Coffee,” named after the clear color of the sea, with the goal of making it a local specialty in a few years. Onishi and Nakahira are now preparing for tasting events in Japan.
“We are able to enjoy the coffee not only because the island was not totally burned during the war, but also because we were able to utilize a series of coincidences and cooperate with people on the island. I want to make it a symbol of friendship between Japan and Rota,” Onishi said.